
In this episode Katherine (Jodi Long) gets temporarily hired as a sales assistant at the cosmetics counter at Drummonds, which happens to be the same shop where her daughter Margaret (Margaret Cho) works. Katherine and her husband Benny run a bookshop together, but the cosmetics counter is a whole new experience for her.
The episode aired on October 26th, 1994, and it feels like a time capsule: the bottles sitting on the counter truly give a precise idea of the fragrance trends in that part of the decade.

We can’t really tie Nina Ricci L’air du temps to a specific time, because it’s a timeless fragrance, but it’s still nice to see the beautiful dove-topped bottle here. This floral spicy fragrance, created by Francis Fabron, was launched in 1948.

Another Ricci fragrance – Nina – makes its appearance here. This powdery aromatic creation by Christian Vacchiano was launched in 1987.

A sign of the times was definitely the heart-shaped bottles of Escada Margaretha Ley, a white floral fragrance created by Michel Almairac and launched in 1990.

Another sign of the times are the several Bijan bottles seen on and below the counter. Different fragrances and formulations, one brand: founded in 1976 by the Persian designer Bijan Pakzad and by his business partner Dar Mahboubi, Bijan is a men’s fashion house that first established a boutique in Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, and later in New York. International politicians and celebrities wore Bijan clothes, but the brand successfully branched out by producing fragrances, too.
The trademark ring-shaped bottle we can see on the counter is Bijan Women eau de parfum, a white floral fragrance by Peter Bohm launched in 1986.


Below the counter we can see two versions of Bijan Men eau de toilette, an aromatic fragrance by Claudette Belnavis launched in 1987. Both of them have a spiral fluted stopper, but one is made of There’s the clear glass version and the one made of frosted glass.

The small bottle sitting among the bottles of Bijan Men is the pure perfume/extrait of Bijan Women.



















The
In the screencap above, Kesha is in her dressing room; on her vanity there’s a can of L’Oreal Elnett Satin extra-strong hold hairspray.
But the most interesting moment is set in her house, where we can get a good look at her vanity.
The white fluted refillable atomiser is the super-romantic L’air du temps by Nina Ricci.
There’s also the eau de toilette version of Pasha de Cartier, a fresh spicy men’s fragrance created by Jacques Cavallier and launched in 1992. I like to think the televangelist – not her husband – wears it.
Such an eclectic perfume selection wouldn’t be such without a blast of white flowers! So here is Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt, the 1980s best seller created by Sophia Grojsman.
Another nod to the past is the aqua green tube of Clinique lipstick, a packaging now sadly discontinued.


I think Xavier Dolan must have a thing for perfumes mothers wear. In his films, there’s often a moment in which the protagonist’s mother explains what perfume she’s wearing [1], so I guess this must have something to do with a personal obsession of the director. In this case, Grace (Susan Sarandon) is wearing Nina Ricci L’air du temps, the classic floral/spicy creation by Francis Fabron launched after WWII, in 1948.









Divine having a bubble bath in a St. John’s Wood bathroom is such an entrancing view! The artist from Baltimore, protagonist of many iconoclastic films by John Waters, posed for Peter Warner for Divine Bathrooms, Lovely Loos, a photoshoot published on the British magazine Harpers and Queen (
There are some perfume bottles on the mahogany-panelled window by the tub. The first on the left is the amphora-like bottle of L’air du temps by Nina Ricci, created by Francis Fabron and launched in 1948.
Next to it, Empreinte by Courreges, a fragrance created by Robert Gonnon and launched in 1970.
I haven’t been able to identify the bottle with the white stopper next to it, but the small bottle on the right is definitely Hermès Calèche, composed by Guy Robert in 1961.
Not only perfumes, but body lotions, too. The white bottle is Yves Saint Laurent Opium
The glass containers look like Avon vanity jars.


There are two Nina Ricci perfumes on a dressing table: L’Air du Temps and Fleur de Fleurs.