Halston E03 (The Sweet Smell of Success)

This episode tells the story behind the creation of Halston, the fragrance the American designer launched in 1974: it became an immediate hit and is still recognized as one of the scented symbols of that decade.

Even if I never write about myself and rarely comment on what I post, I’ve decided to explain what I’ve appreciated in it and what I consider a personal affront.

The episode describes well the designing process of the organic drop-shaped bottle by Elsa Peretti, the original Halstonette: born in Florence, she worked as a model first, but soon became a close collaborator of Halston and later a designer for Tiffany and Co.

The story behind this bottle is accurately presented: it’s true that the manufacturers were not able to fill the curved bottles with the machinery they used and it’s true that Halston paid $50,000 from his own pocket to create an adapter which made the filling operation possible.

The commercial accurately reproduces the advertising campaign with which the perfume was launched.

What has filled me with disappointment and rage is the creative process. When Halston meets for the first time the perfumer who will create his perfume, I literally jumped on my chair. Seriously??? Adèle who??? Poor Vera Farmiga, giving voice to the biggest mistake of the episode.

At least they got something right: the nose who created Halston really worked for IFF. He was the Head Perfumer of the American multinational.

Yes, “he”, because there was no Adèle but Bernard Chant, who gave us fragrances like Cabochard (in 1959), Aramis (in 1966), Clinique Aromatics Elixir (in 1971), Lauren by Ralph Lauren (in 1978) and Estée Lauder hits like Cinnabar (in 1978) and Beautiful (in 1985). In the picture above, he was portrayed by Louie Psihoyos while testing perfumes on human skin.

I understand the reasons behind the narration for TV and I get that Adèle is a reassuring mother-like figure for the troubled designer, but such a gross historical inaccuracy is insulting for the memory of the perfumer, for the designer and for those who were involved in the creation of the perfume.

I’ve covered recent and less recent TV shows by Ryan Murphy and I’ve often praised the impeccable work in recreating the past, but this is too much. What a huge disappointment!

4 mosche di velluto grigio (1971)

Dalia (Francine Racette) has convinced Roberto (Michael Brandon) to take a bath. In his bathroom there are two perfume boxes, a prelude to the bottles which will be soon seen by the tub.

The large bottle with silverish gold stopper is Atkinsons English Lavender, a timeless fragrance which was very popular in Italy in those years.

When Dalia joins Roberto in the tub, we can get a better look at the other bottle, squared with black stopper.

It’s another fragrance by Atkinsons – the eau de cologne Executive.

Pose S03E03 (The Trunk)

In this episode we’re brought back to 1983, when Elektra (Dominique Jackson) is trying hard to achieve her goals and to help her three daughters (Blanca, Candy and Lulu). They share a dingy flat, but this doesn’t let Elektra down: it probably gives her a reason to fight and improve her condition.

The deep connection between Elektra and perfumes is nothing new: she name-dropped Caron Poivre in Season 1 and I spotted Givenchy Ysatis on her dressing table in Season 2. I’m glad we get to know her better through another perfume.

In the early 1980s she wears White Linen by Estee Lauder, a floral aldehydic fragrance created by Sophia Grojsman and launched in 1978.

In 1983 this was the advert of the perfume: model Karen Graham, portrayed by Victor Skrebneski, was wearing a chic white outfit with blue details and looked relaxed in an elegant mansion. The imagery conjured here is so different from the world of Elektra, but it represents a goal to reach – money, luxury, comfort.

Behind White Linen there’s Hask Biotin hairspray, which is a historically inaccurate choice because this brand didn’t exist in the early 1980s.

On her dressing table there’s also an orange OPI nail polish.

Selena: The Series S02E09 (When All the World is Sleeping)

In the show’s finale we are given a beautiful shot of Selena’s vanity. There are several MAC products and two surprising perfume bottles.

The small brush on the left side of the screen is MAC 182 buffer brush.

Then there are some lipsticks and compacts, which could be blushes or face powders.

The intriguing choices can be seen on the right side of the screen, where there are two Guerlain bottles.

One is the refillable metal canister, shown here without stopper.

The other is a small flacon montre with golden conical stopper. The front sticker is not shown, so there’s no way to know what eau de cologne this contains.

I’m quite surprised to see Guerlain perfumes on Selena’s vanity and not the one that was her trademark perfume in real life.

In this picture, taken at the Selena Museum in Corpus Christi, we can see Chanel make-up products (including the famous Brick lip colour, now discontinued) and brushes, and one perfume bottle – Boucheron Pour Femme, a white floral fragrance created by Francis Deleamont and Jean-Pierre Bethouart and launched in 1988.

Since this perfume is still on the market, I wonder why the show’s prop masters haven’t used it in this scene.

Selena: The Series S02E05 (Oh No)

Selena (Christian Serratos) has just arrived at her boutique to interview candidates for a sales assistant position. Yolanda (Natasha Perez) hands her a MAC lipstick.

When Selena applies it, we can see it’s a deep red shade, possibly Russian Red (intense bluish red), which she used in real life.

Day Out of Days (2015)

The opening scene shows some of the beauty products used by the protagonist, the actress Mia Roarke.

From the left we can see a jar of Cetaphil moisturizing cream.

There’s a bottle of MCMC Noble fragrance, created by Anne McClain and launched in 2009.

Next, there’s Hamadi Organics shea leave-in moisturizing styling cream.

Next, a peachy pink blush by MAC.

Last, the small toppled-over bottle contains Mario Badescu drying lotion.

Thanks to my friend Jennifer for the screencaps and ids.

Pose S03E01 (On the Run)

Lemar Khan (Jason A. Rodriguez), a former member of the House of Abundance, Ferocity, Evangelista and Wintour, is now the father of the House of Khan and he’s ready to challenge his former mother, Elekra Evangelista.

On his dressing table we can see a bottle of Thayers rose petal and witch hazel alcohol-free toner and a bright red nail polish by Sally Hansen.

There’s also a pump bottle of Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula moisturizing hand wash.

Pose S03E01 (On the Run)

In 1994 Pray Tell (Billy Porter) works as sales assistant in the cosmetic department at Macy’s.

A factice bottle of Christian Dior Dolce Vita is displayed. This is an accurate choice because the woody fragrance, created by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger, was launched exactly in 1994.

On the right side of the counter there’s also a bottle of Bijan by Bijan, a white floral eau de toilette created by Peter Bohm and launched in 1986.

Pray Tell is spraying Chanel No. 5 on customers and advertises the iconic product as a perfume that can “reawaken that passion.”

He’s spraying the eau de parfum, the 1986 version by Jacques Polges of the original fragrance created by Ernest Beaux in 1921.

Sunset Boulevard (1950)

While perfume lovers and professionals still believe the urban legend according to which a bottle of Caron Narcisse Noir appears on Norma Desmond’s vanity (it doesn’t), no one has ever taken the time to see what’s actually on that table.

Well, I have and I love what I’ve found – three Lucien Lelong bottles!

Right under the round standing mirror on Norma’s left there’s a short bottle with bow-like stopper: it’s Jabot, launched in 1939.

If we move to the left side of the table, there’s a tall balloon bottle containing Balakaïka eau de cologne, launched in 1939.

When Norma stands up, we can see a golden bottle of Orgueil on a small table on the far left. This Jean Carles fragrance was launched in 1946.

I don’t think my passion for Lelong perfumes is a mystery: I’ve written about them many times and I find their bottle designs very distinctive and original. Seeing some of them on such an iconic dressing table really makes sense: it shows us that Norma Desmond is a fragrance lover and supposedly uses more than one fragrance, as shown by the several bottles sitting on the table (I haven’t been able to identify them all).

Now another question pops up: if we assume she is wearing a Lucien Lelong perfume in this famous scene, what perfume is it? Where does the infamous tuberose come from? It could be from Orgueil, which, according to Basenotes, includes tuberose in its heart notes, along with carnation, iris, jasmine, rose, clove and nutmeg.

A growing archive of beauty products and perfumes in movies and tv shows