Hypodermic Sally (Sarah Paulson) is wearing No Explanation by AJ Crimson, a beautiful deep berry shade.
Thanks to Eryn Krueger Mekash, the show’s make-up artist, for the id.
Hypodermic Sally (Sarah Paulson) is wearing No Explanation by AJ Crimson, a beautiful deep berry shade.
Thanks to Eryn Krueger Mekash, the show’s make-up artist, for the id.
Eileen (Jenny Wright) keeps a bottle of Volcan d’Amour by Diane Von Furstenberg on her dressing table. The second fragrance by Von Furstenberg – a bold chypre with a strong basil note – was inspired to her love story with a Brazilian man and launched in 1981.
After much debate, I’ve come to terms with the fact that no Evian products were mentioned in the famous first dialogue between Hannibal Lecter and Clarice Starling. The point is that an Evian product actually appears in the movie and I’ve never noticed it before. It’s the classic mineral water spray with the pink cap, sitting on a chest of drawers in Clarice’s bedroom.
Chanel #5 (Abigail Breslin) wants to convince Jennifer to vote Zayday as new president of the KKT Sorority House, so as to bring Chanel Oberlin down. She reveals one of Chanel’s luxurious habits (burning Diptyque candles once and then throwing them away), promises all those candles to Jennifer, who obviously freaks out, ready to vote whomever she is asked to.
In Chanel’s closet there’s a number of candles, burnt once and then put aside. They’re not real Diptyque candles, but prop masters did a good job in reproducing the main features of the famous French candles – oval label, glass vase and names. None of the names (Iris, Lilac, Lily, 23) is the real name of a Diptyque candle, but they are reminiscent of them. 23 instead of 34? Nice try! Someone in the prop department has done his/her research.
There’s an OPI bottle on the bedside table in Katie’s bedroom. It could be a top coat, a base coat or even Nail Envy nail strengthener.
The dressing table of Rose Selfridge (Frances O’Connor) is quite busy. She’s clearly a fan of Guerlain perfumes: two flacons montre [1] can be seen on the shelf in front of the window, but there’s more. She opens a Guerlain box, decorated with people and animals, and takes out a flacon bouchon coeur, the bottle with the heart-shaped stopper designed by Raymond Guerlain in collaboration with Baccarat. It would be easy to assume this is Après l’Ondée, created by Jacques Guerlain in 1906, but it’s not, because that perfume has never had that bottle. It would have been a historically accurate choice (this episode takes place in 1909), but prop masters opted for something different. The flacon bouchon coeur originally contained three perfumes, released between 1912 and 1919.
Fol Arôme was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1912. Grace Hummel found a reference of this perfume being sold in 1896, so the 1912 version would be a reworked or relaunched perfume.
L’Heure Bleue was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1912. I don’t think this is the perfume seen on Rose’s dressing table because of the blue lettering on the central sticker.
The last possibility is Mitsouko, one of the most famous perfumes by the French brand. Another creation by Jacques Guerlain, it was launched in 1919, ten years after the time in which the tv show is set.
My guess is that the perfume seen in this episode is Fol Arôme, because the pale orange decorations on the sticker seem to match.
[1] The flacon montre was first released in 1936. The presence of these bottles in this episode is totally inaccurate, but no one can deny their decorative function.
Pinaud Clubman talc (in a vintage tin bottle) is featured in the opening scene and in the film poster.
Director Bruce Robinson demanded the inclusion of the Pinaud talc in the shot as he felt it “essential” to convey the sense that Depp’s character, Paul Kemp, was highly refined and sophisticated despite his penchant for heavy drinking. Once the scene was shot in its entirety, Johnny Depp took the talc home.
Napoleon LeNez (Christopher Sieber) is a smell expert who’s about to publish a self-help book on how smells can stir up beloved memories. A few days before the release of the book, one of his students, Anita Grey, tragically dies in a mysterious explosion. Anita’s mother asks Emerson to investigate the girl’s death. When Ned (Lee Pace), Emerson (Chi McBride) and Chuck (Anna Friel) meet him, he sniffs each of them because he thinks that smells can speak volumes about one’s personality. He smells “cigars, after-shave, antacids, cash and yarn” on Emerson: LeNez concludes he’s a “knitting detective”, which is obviously true. He can pin Ned’s personality, too: he smells of “flour, fruit” and “musky pheromones”, activated by Chuck’s presence. The description of the girl’s smell is spooky but true: she smells of honey (she loves beekeeping) and death.
Later in the episode, Chuck and Olive (Kristin Chenoweth) meet another smell expert, Oscar Vibenius (Paul Reubens), who’s Napoleon’s enemy. He confirms Napoleon’s thoughts on Chuck’s smell: she really smells of honey, but there’s “something else”. “Death. It’s my perfume,” Chuck replies, but both of them know she’s wearing no perfume. She’s wearing her mother’s cardigan, and Oscar smells that something on the piece of clothing.
It’s clear Bryan Fuller is obsessed with smelling. Just think how he brought Hannibal Lecter’s own obsession with smell (already present in the books by Thomas Harris and in The Silence of the Lambs) to a higher level: Fuller’s Hannibal can diagnose diseases through the sense of smell and can tell what’s happened in Will Graham’s life after three years of separation.