All posts by Born Unicorn

Pedantic archivist of beauty products in films and tv shows

Les diaboliques (1955)

lesdiaboliques_bornunicornNicole Horner (Simone Signoret) is a teacher at a private school, where she gets involved into a dangerous love triangle. She’s a cool plotter and an elegant lady: she navigates the stormy waters of the plot wearing trench coats, pencil skirt-shirt-cardigan combos, belted dresses and chic sunglasses. She’s a pragmatic woman, so it’s not a surprise that she uses eau de cologne as rubbing alcohol. In the scene above, she is about to give a sedative shot to poor Christina Delassalle and takes some liquid from a bottle sitting on a dresser.

The bottle in question happens to be a Coty one, with the trademark fluted details. We can’t identify the exact perfume from the front label or from the colour of the stopper (since the film was shot in black and white), but we can make some assumptions.

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coty_cordonvert_bornunicornJudging from the shape of the label, it could be the cologne Cordon Rouge or Cordon Vert, originally launched in the early 1900s. In the 1930s/1940s most of Coty colognes had this bottle, so this one could also contain L’aimant

Sons of Anarchy S05E09 (Andare Pescare)

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sonsofanarchy_s05e09_ottoperfume (6)Tara (Maggie Siff) visits Otto (Kurt Sutter) in hospital and brings him his favourite perfume, the one worn by his (now dead) lover Luann. Described by Gemma as smelling “like cum and patchouli,” it’s the only fragrance Otto wanted Luann to wear. No surprise he asks Tara to wear it for him. The scene where he sniffs her wrist is pure perfume fetishism, a very intimate moment.

Don Juan ou Si Don Juan était une femme… (1973)

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There’s a bottle of L’Oreal Obao bubble bath on Jeanne’s bath tub. This product, advertised in France as “le bain de mousse à la japonaise”, was launched in 1963; its name was inspired to o-furo, the traditional Japanese bath.

Mr Selfridge S02E07

mrselfridge_s02e07_bornunicorn (1)Kitty Hawkins (Amy Beth Hayes) is holding two Penhaligon’s perfumes while chatting with her assistant Jessie (Sai Bennett).

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Thanks to a larger shot, we know that those are bottles of Malabah, sitting on the glass counter next to Lily of the Valley and a factice bottle of English Fern.

penhaligons_lavandula_bornunicornBottles of Lavandula and Orange Blossom can be seen, too.

Picking Penhaligon’s perfumes for this show is historically accurate, since Penhaligon’s was established in 1870. Some of the fragrances seen on Selfridge’s counters were launched way after the 1910s, though – Orange Blossom in 1976, Malabah in 2003 and Lavandula in 2004. On the other hand, Lily of the Valley was created in 1907, English Fern in 1910, so they could be actually sold in the Oxford Street department store.

La caduta degli dei (1969)

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guerlain_mitsouko_bornunicornThere’s a Guerlain perfume bottle on the dressing table of Olga (Florinda Bolkan), Martin Von Essenbeck’s mistress. It’s the flacon bouchon coeur with the classic heart-shaped stopper. Designed by Raymond Guerlain and Baccarat, it was launched in 1912 and originally contained extraits of Mitsouko, Fol Arome and L’Heure Bleue.

The film is set in Germany during the Third Reich (1933-1945), so a bottle of the three perfumes above would be historically accurate: Mitsouko was launched in 1919, Fol Arome and L’Heure Bleue in 1912. I can see Olga wearing Mitsouko, though, because it perfectly fits her vampy attitude and her dreams (fulfilled at last) to replace Martin’s mother in his life. The Guerlain perfume on her dressing table symbolizes the rich and powerful life she longs to live, refinement and luxury; it’s not a coincidence that Sophie Von Essenbeck exclusively uses Guerlain perfumes.