On the make-up counter at Selfridges there’s an ad for Djer Kiss face powder.
Kitty’s perfume counter is packed with Jean Patou fragrances. We can see several bottles of Joy and three smaller bottles.One of the most famous white floral perfumes, Joy was created by Henri Almeras and launched in 1930. Colony, launched in 1938, is another creation by Almeras. The bottle originally had a peculiar pineapple shape.
The miniature on the left is another Patou perfume, but it’s impossible to tell which. This bottle, with rounded shoulders and stopper, was used for several fragrances. The fourth season of the show is set in 1928, so we can make some assumptions: it could be Amour Amour, Que sais je? or Adieu Sagesse (all launched in 1925) or even Chaldee (launched in 1927). The point is that these assumptions are not really correct: Joy is widely shown in this scene, which is historically inaccurate (the perfume was launched in 1930, two years after the events told in the season), so the miniature above could actually contain any Patou perfume, even one launched after 1928.
Later in the episode, a poster for Joy can be seen. Le parfum roi had a simple bottle decorated with gold leaf and gold thread around the bottle.
Kitty Hawkins (Amy Beth Hayes) is mad at Frank Edwards (Samuel West): he tries to make up with her and visits the make-up counter at Selfridges. He asks for advice: he wants to give something special to someone special (her ;)). She plays along: she suggests “a new perfume” by Guerlain, which happens to be Mitsouko in the traditional flacon bouchon coeur. This is a historically accurate choice, because the perfume was created in 1919, around the time in which the tv show is set.
Other products she suggests are Yardley facial cream (in the dark green glass pot originally used for English Lavender brilliantine) and a Penhaligon’s soap.
Last but not least, she mentions Lady Primrose hand lotion: the beautiful fluted glass jar shown is actually used for the Royal Extract body cream.
When Lady Loxley (Katherine Kelly) visits Selfridges with her husband, Kitty Hawkins (Amy Beth Hayes) tells her the Yardley face cream she wanted has arrived. The teal glass jars displayed on the counter are by Yardley, but they originally contained English Lavender brilliantine.
On the same counter, some bottles of Lily of the Valley (an original Selfridges perfume) can be seen.
There are lots of Bourjois products at the cosmetics counter. The beautiful round pots made of paper in pastel colours are from the Ashes of series, which included several lines in several scents: rose, lily, violet, carnation, wall flower, lavender, gardenia, sandal, heliotrope, mimosa/muguet, jasmine/iris.
According to Grace Hummel, Ashes of Roses, created by Ernest Beaux, was first launched in France in 1909, in the USA in 1913 and in England in 1923. As for the graphics, they featured “a slender vase with a single flower,” which was “typical of the Paul Iribe drawings from 1910.”
Bourjois paid homage to its own past in 2010, when the Vintage collection was released. It included 5 eyeshadows and 3 blushes (Ashes of Carnations in Lilas d’or, Ashes of Roses in Rose Frisson and Ashes of Wall Flower in Rose d’or) in the trademark little round pots.
Thanks to a larger shot, we know that those are bottles of Malabah, sitting on the glass counter next to Lily of the Valley and a factice bottle of English Fern.
Picking Penhaligon’s perfumes for this show is historically accurate, since Penhaligon’s was established in 1870. Some of the fragrances seen on Selfridge’s counters were launched way after the 1910s, though – Orange Blossom in 1976, Malabah in 2003 and Lavandula in 2004. On the other hand, Lily of the Valley was created in 1907, English Fern in 1910, so they could be actually sold in the Oxford Street department store.
Several bottles of Caron perfumes can be seen in the beauty department. Two types of bottles are displayed: one is made all of glass, with tall rectangular stopper; the other is made of dotted glass with gold fluted stopper. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to tell what scents they contain. On the contrary, we know the black bottle in the box is Nuit de Noël, a floral fragrance created by Ernest Daltroff and launched in 1922.
Kitty Hawkins (Amy Beth Hayes) and the girls at the cosmetics counter are ready to welcome Delphine Day (Polly Walker), a businesswoman and nightclub owner who’s the talk of the town: sexy and independent, she’s presenting her novel at Selfridges. Lots of Guerlain flacons bouchon coeur can be seen, including a giant factice bottle.