One of the most interesting pieces displayed at the Deutsche Kinemathek Museum für Film und Fernsehen is a leather make-up train case owned by Marlene Dietrich. The museum has a beautiful selection of personal objects of the German diva (clothes included), but this case has always attracted my attention. I’ve visited the museum several times, but there’s always been one enigma: a lipstick from Marlene’s case I couldn’t identify (you can see it in the picture above, behind the hair brush, on the right). Until last summer, when I finally was able to read the writing on the bottom of the case.


It’s a lipstick by House of Gourielli in the shade Rose Topaz. The metal case is lovely – it’s decorated by two hands clasped – but the story behind the brand is even better. It was named after Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia, second husband to Helena Rubinstein, for whom she created a beauty line which included men’s skincare and haircare (sold from the Grey Room of Rubinstein’s beauty salon), women’s skincare, make-up and perfumes.






There are two lipsticks on Ilana Mather’s dressing table: the one with the golden case is Pure Color by Estee Lauder; the one with the black and gold case is by Chanel.
The gold jar contains another Estee Lauder product – the face cream Re-Nutriv.

One of the most ground-breaking eye shadow colours – the jade green Mermaid Eyes by Max Factor – gets a mention in this scene, set at the make-up counter where Midge works. Too bad this namecheck is historically inaccurate: the story is set in the late 1950s, while the Max Factor product was released in 1962.


The first, launched in 1945, has been discontinued, while the second, launched in 1953, is still among the most popular colours of the brand.


There’s a problem, though: the beautiful Pochet et du Courval leaf-shaped bottle shouldn’t be sitting at a department store in 1958, because the Paul Guerlain creation was released only in 1969, 11 years later.


While Mary (Erin Darke) and Midge (Rachel Brosnahan) are walking through the beauty department, some perfume bottles can be seen on the counter on the left: they’re Madame Rochas by Rochas (created by Guy Robert in 1960) and a flacon abeilles dorées by Guerlain.

There’s a flacon bouchon coeur by Guerlain on the counter behind Harriet (Wakeema Hollis) at B. Altman. There’s no way to see what perfume it contains, since the label is not visible.





The only hair relaxing product that the Sidewinder boss (Brian George) has in his shop is from the