Tag Archives: pose

Pose S02E04 (Never Knew Love Like This Before)

One of the most intense and emotional moments in a VERY intense and emotional episode was the conversation between Candy (Angelica Ross) and her mother (Patrice Johnson Chevannes). In particular, a memory from the past is brought up: as a young boy, Candy wore her mother’s perfume, a symbol of the “silent pact” she thought was between them. Despite her assumptions and hopes, though, Candy got rejected by her family for being a transgender woman and this felt like an unbearable betrayal.

This scene reminds me of another emotional moment from Paris is Burning (1990) by Jennie Livingstone: Pepper LaBeija, mother of the House of LaBeija, explains how her parents found out she dressed as a girl. Her mother found a fur coat in her closet and realised it was hers from the perfume on it, Tuvaché Jungle Gardenia. The gendered notion of perfume – now almost completely gone, thank God – could really give away a lot about oneself, sometimes with horrible consequences.

The perfume worn by Vivica and Candy is another strong symbol: Revlon Charlie was launched in 1973 and marked the beginning of a new era in perfumery. It was a fresh chypre fragrance, arguably one of the first feminist fragrances: as Barbara Herman explains in her book Scent & Subversion, “it was marketed to American women during an era when feminist consciousness was at its pop-culture height.” No wonder that Candy saw that specific perfume, worn by the most important woman in her life, as a “gate to femininity”.

The advertising campaign of Charlie was about independence, gorgeousness and sexiness: as the slogan said, it was a “gorgeous, sexy-young fragrance”, embodied by statuesque model/actress Shelley Hack wearing trousers.

Pose S02E03 (Butterfly/Cocoon)

pose_s02e03_bornunicorn (2)Angel (Indya Moore) starts her modeling career as face of the Wet ‘n Wild spring 1990 collection. Her pictures are on the shop display and on products too! Even if the brand launched in 1979, the items seen in this episode are from current collections, not from the 1990s. From left to right there are:

wetnwildlipsticks_bornunicornSilk Finish lipsticks

wetnwildglassygloss_bornunicornGlassy Gloss lip gels

wetnwildmegalastnailpolish_bornunicornMegalast nail polishes

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wetnwild6eyeshadowpalette_bornunicorn.jpgTwo types of eyeshadow palette – the classic 8-pan palette and the Coloricon 6-pan ones from the Spring 2015 collection.

wetnwildsingleeyeshadows_bornunicornLast, Coloricon single eyeshadows.

Pose S02E03 (Butterfly/Cocoon)

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guerlainshalimarcologne_bornunicornThere’s a flacon montre of Guerlain Shalimar cologne in the dressing room of the club where Candy works as pole dancer.

It’s clear Ryan Murphy, Pose’s showrunner, is a fan of the Guerlain perfume: you may remember it was mentioned in American Horror Story: Hotel (it was Ramona Royale’s signature scent) and in American Horror Story: Roanoke (it was used by Lee Harris).

Pose S01E02 (Access)

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When Elektra Abundance (Dominique Jackson) visits the nail salon where Blanca (MJ Rodriguez) works, it’s clear she’s not interested in getting a manicure. She asks for a top coat on her already done nails, and she soon points out her likes and dislikes.

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She likes Revlon and Max Factor nail polishes. In the adverts above (both from 1987), you can see the design these brands had for their nail varnish bottles.

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She totally dislikes Yardley, the British brand founded in 1770 which was incredibly successful in the 1960s and 1970s, but lost its appeal in the 1980s.

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She’s not done with Blanca: her former daughter should take better care of herself and her “ashy complexion” by using Pond’s cold cream.

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In the screencap above we can see a jar of Barbicide disinfectant on Blanca’s working station.

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In the meantime, Blanca is applying the top coat Elektra has asked for. It’s by Seche Vite, even if this product didn’t exist in 1987 (the brand was founded in 1991).

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opi_pinkandred_bornunicornWhen Blanca puts away the top coat, we can see a display of OPI nail polishes. This is historically incorrect, since the American brand, founded in 1981, expanded its portfolio to nail lacquers in 1989, not in 1987.

Pose S01E02 (Access)

pose_s01e02_bornunicornWhen Damon (Ryan Jamaal Swain) first meets Ricky (Dyllon Burnside), he asks him if he took a bath in Kouros cologne.

yslkouros_bornunicornThis is a lovely namedrop, because it refers to the Yves Saint Laurent perfume that really defined a decade. Created by Pierre Bourdon and launched in 1981, it was unforgettable in its original formulation, heavy on civet, honey, leather and musk.

Pose S01E02 (Access)

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Elektra Abundance (Dominique Jackson) likes flaunting her luxurious lifestyle and when she goes to bail Blanca out of jail, she reinforces this attitude. She charms a police officer who’s interested in her perfume: she explains it’s Caron Poivre, a very expensive perfume that an ordinary police officer has obviously never smelt before.

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This is an unusual choice: Poivre is not among the classic powerhouse fragrances which ruled the 1980s, so it tells a lot about Elektra’s lifestyle. Created by Michel Morsetti and launched in 1954, the fragrance is named after its dominant note (pepper). It was originally advertised as “the dream fragrance for furs” [1], so it sounds perfect for a woman like Elektra who often wears furs.

[1] Probably the most famous fragrances “for furs” were created in 1928 by Claude Fraysse for Parfums Weil – Chinchilla Royal, Hermine, Une Fleur pour Fourrure and Zibeline. As a matter of fact, the perfume house’s founder, Marcel Weil, owned a famous furs atelier, Fourrures Weil.

Pose S01E03 (Giving and Receiving)

pose_s01e03_bornunicornAngel (Indya Moore) finally gets her own apartment thanks to Stan. On Christmas Eve she goes through her beauty routine, waiting for her lover to pay her a visit.

The pink bottle on her vanity is Xi’a Xi’ang, a perfume launched in 1987 by Charles of the Ritz and later released under the Revlon name. Named after the Chinese word for “imagination”, it was discontinued in 1995.

Thanks to perfumes_marimichimoni on Instagram for the id.