Debbie (Hayes Warner) is having a rendez-vous with Ryan (Daniel Dale) at Susan’s party. On a vanity behind her there’s a box of Giorgio Beverly Hills, previously spotted on the dressing table of Debbie’s mother.
This is a realistic detail, considering the white floral fragrance created by Francis Camail was launched exactly in 1981, the year in which the story is set, and given how popular it was.
Debbie (Hayes Warner) has a conversation with Ryan (Daniel Dale) while attending a school event Susan has organised to raise awareness after the kidnapping of the fellow student Rhonda. She asks him what he’s wearing and his reply is not surprising.
Yves Saint Laurent Kouros [1] is an aromatic fougère fragrance created by Pierre Bourdon and launched in 1981, the same year in which the TV show is set. It quickly became very popular (my father wore it, too!), so it’s obvious that someone who takes so much care of his appearance like Ryan uses it.
This specific line (“It’s for men”) adds more depth to a simple exchange. We don’t know much about Ryan yet, but at the beginning of the TV show a relationship with Bret is hinted at [2]. This apparently unnecessary remark emphasizes the fact that the boy wants his public persona to be undoubtedly heterosexual.
Debbie’s snappy comment makes us understand that she’s probably seen through the surface, and senses there’s more to Ryan than appearances suggest.
[1] This is the second time a fragrance is mentioned in the TV show, and it happens to be another fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent.
[2] If you have read the novel by Bret Easton Ellis, you’ll remember how important the relationship between the two boys is. None of that can be found in the TV show.
The opening of this scene deserves a moment of silence. This is the intricately ornate vanity of Debbie Schaffer (Hayes Warner), who’s getting ready for a night out. The “frieze” decorating the bottom of the mirror perfectly echoes the maximalist style of the early part of the decade. Honestly it’s left me speechless, because there’s a lot about the 1980s (visually speaking) that I have tried to forget over the years, but let’s move on from here.
A can of Aquanet super-hold hairspray can be seen on the table. It’s the first product she uses.
There’s a lot happening on her table, but I have managed to identify two bottles. The one with the milky white stopper is Dior Miss Dior eau de cologne; the other, with the milky white dove stopper, is Nina Ricci L’air du temps, previously seen in the pilot, although housed in a different bottle. Both choices are historically accurate: the original Miss Dior (a creation by created by Paul Vacher and Jean Carles) was launched in 1947, and the Nina Ricci fragrance (a Francis Fabron creation) was launched in 1948.
Among the nail polish bottles, there are a couple with a distinctive hexagonal cap: they are Super Nails nail polishes by Natural Wonder.
It makes sense for Debbie to own Remington 600 Super hand-held hair dryer, which came with attachments for different stylings.
When the girl opens a drawer of her table (she’s looking for something), more products can be seen.
There are several Lip Smacker lip balms, among which Blue Raspberry, Piña Colada and Kiwi. These are not vintage products, but these lip balms were first introduced in 1973 by Bonne Bell. They’re definitely a realistic choice.
Last, a Chanel compact. It’s impossible to know what it contained (pressed face powder or eye-shadows), but it’s another realistic choice. The advert above is from 1980: it promoted the make-up collection Les Provocatifs, which I haven’t been able to find more information about. In any case, in the early 1980s both pressed face powder and eye-shadow palettes were part of Chanel cosmetics collections.
Generational rivalries and half-hidden secrets run deep in the Schaffers’ household. Debbie (Hayes Warner) and her mother Liz (Evan Rachel Wood) mirror each other: they look alike and live in a world where money and appearances matter more than anything else. “You are me,” says Liz [1] to Debbie, when the girl confronts and criticises her questionable life choices.
Whether one likes it or not, the blue and gold bottle on Liz’s vanity is Versace Dylan Blue, a floral fruity fragrance created by Calice Becker and Natalie Gracia-Cetto, and released in 2017. The prop masters of the TV show must have had a great time by planting such a blatant historical inaccuracy in a 1981 context.
Debbie storms into her mother’s bedroom because she wants her Lancôme compact back. The content of the compact is never mentioned, but we can assume it is an eyeshadow palette, because that’s what Liz is applying on her face when Debbie enters her bedroom.
I haven’t found the exact compact seen in this scene, but there’s evidence of Lancôme using red packaging (not the classic glossy black one) in the late 1970s/early 1980s. The advert above features Carol Alt: the American model became testimonial in 1979, when she was 18. She was the face of Lancôme for three years, more or less until 1981; her successor would be Isabella Rossellini. The compact she’s holding doesn’t look like the one seen in the TV show, but let’s just say it’s a realistic detail.
[1] Liz, a former model now trapped into an unhappy marriage, gives Elvira vibes, doesn’t she?
World Wide Aura 