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American Horror Story S02E08 (Unholy Night)

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ahsasylum_tabuperfume_bornunicorn (8)The dialogue going on between Dr. Arden (James Cromwell) and Sister Mary Eunice (Lily Rabe) takes place at Christmas time in 1964. He’s giving her a present [1] and she wonders what could it be. She wishes for Dana Tabu perfume, but thinks she will receive some “cheap toilet water from the Woolworth’s” or Yardley’s English Lavender.

There’s a contrast between the two fragrances she mentions, since the first appeals to her seductive side, while the second is more traditional.

danatabuvintagead_bornunicornNo wonder the demon-possessed nun would like to get the “forbidden” perfume. Created in 1932 by Jean Carles, it’s a warm spicy/woody scent which starts with fresh citrus and spicy notes; according to Fragrantica, its warm oriental base includes amber, resins, civet and precious woods – sandal and patchouli. In Scent and Subversion Barbara Herman explains that “it’s said that Dana’s brief to Carles was along the lines of, ‘Make a perfume a prostitute would wear'”.

yardleyenglishlavendervintagead_bornunicornOn the other hand, Fragrantica classifies English Lavender as an aromatic fougère for women. First launched in 1913, it includes notes of rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender and bergamot, with base notes of tonka bean, musk and oakmoss. Such a classic perfume could not charm the wild side of Sister Mary Eunice.

[1] His present is a pair of ruby earrings he stole from a Jewish woman in concentration camp.

 

American Horror Story S02E03 (Nor’easter)

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Lily Rabe as Sister Mary Eunice wearing a red lipstick.

There’s an interesting behind-the-scene story about this lipstick. Its shade – Ravish Me Red – is a real colour by Revlon, but the show’s make-up artist Eryn Krueger Mekash explained they actually used a Julie Hewett lipstick on Lily, aptly called Femme Noira gorgeous blue-based 30s scarlet red.